Fall has begun and now it’s time for boots and dresses again! I started my 2020 fall wardrobe with a comfortable jersey dress, because since I’m working mostly from home I’m really in need of comfortable clothes. So here is my new handmade dress in black and grey with cats: (mehr …)
What do you do on a rainy sunday at home? I love to cuddle up on the sofa with a cup of coffee, the cats and the game console. However I’m not the type for yoga pants and oversize t-shirts. I want to look nice and dressed, even when I’m alone at home. So I made myself a „cuddle-up“ dress. It’s soft, comfortable and still goodlooking. (mehr …)
Last week I finished my new favourite dress for spring and summer: A light cotton dress, inspired by the style of the fifties. I found the perfect pattern for that beautiful fabric and had the chance to try out the automatic button-function of my sewing machine.
I just love vintage dresses. As a pattern I used the dress „Evelyn“ from the new magazine „Simply Nähen“. I don’t think that this magazine is available in other languages, so pattern and tutorial are only in german language. This dress is on the cover of the magazine and I fell in love with it already when I saw it in the store.
Last year in august i bought this beautifiul groovy fabric with the little music notes at a local store in Mannheim. I fell for that fabric instantly. The shop assistant asked me, if I played in a band. I told her that I have no talent at all for singing or playing and instrument, but I love listening to music – Mostly rock and heavy metal. So I bought that fabric – And I had no idea what to sew. I wanted something vintage, fifties, maybe a skirt or a blouson, but I couldn’t find a good pattern. Until I ran into that magazine with the perfect vintage dress for a light, soft cotton fabric.
Sewing: Complicated collar and automatic button holes
This is my first pattern from the „Simply Nähen“-magazine. Mostly I sew Burda Style patterns, so I was curious how the pattern and the tutorial would be different from them. Before cutting the fabric, I read through the tutorial. What I liked mostly about it where the detailed explanations for each step. There are little hints, why certain steps have to be performed in a special way, that helped me a lot to understand, how the dress should be fitting in the end.
Unlike most blouses and jackets the collar on this dress should not be reinforced with vlieseline. That was new to me and I was not sure, if it would look good without any reinforcement. After discussing that problem in my favourite facebook sewing group I decided to add a very thin layer of vlieseline to the lower part of the collar. That gives the collar a little support, so it would grump but it kept it still light and flexible.
I wasn’t very content with the first result of the collar. It didn’t fit very well on the dresses neckline, altough it had exactly the size of the pattern, it was way too wide. On the picture in the magazine, the collar was not longer than the shoulder seams, but in reality the length looked quite different. So I removed the collar, cutted it a little and sewed it again. Suddenly everything about that collar fitted perfectly.
Button holes with Pfaff Sensomatic button hole foot
I use the Paff Expression 3.5. for most of my sewing projects. When I bought that machine, it came with the sensomatic buttonhole foot, a little part that makes buttonholes even easier than before. With that foot you just need to measure the length of the button, pin the foot in and the sewing machine will do the rest. Since I own that machine I was curious about that function, but never found the courage to try it, since I found it complicated to install. Sadly there a not many tutorials for this function on the internet for the Expression 3.5., so I had to find out how it worked by myself with the help of the machine’s manual. It was much easier to set up than I thought and I am very content with the results. The buttonholes are perfect, also easy and quick to make.
In this picture you can still see the little line I drawed with chalk on the fabric to mark my button line. I mark buttons normally with a little piece of thread, but I removed the thread before making the buttonholes, to avoid sewing it in there.
The sleeves, the skirt and the waistband
After finishing the bodice, I found the remaining steps of the dress quite easy. The sleeves are gathered a little bit to fit in the armholes. Sewing a heavier fabric, I would not have liked that, because it makes the hem of the sleeves stand away from the arm a little bit. But due to my light fabric, the sleeve just falls smooth on the arms and it looks good that way.
The skirt is also gathered together at the waistline and a rubber band is sewn into the inside. According to the tutorial from the magazine, the band should be sewn to the skirt afterwars. I skipped that step, because the plaids of the skirt look much better, when the are not fixed, it makes the skirt a little more swinging. So I just pinned the waistband on the side seams with a few stitches and left it that way.
Styling: A perfect dress for springtime and a summer picnic
I’m so happy about this dress and I’d love to wear it right now. Sadly, I actually don’t fit into it, because I’m still pregnant. So I will be posting some photos of me in that dress later, possibly in may or june. I also didn’t stitch up the seam of the dress, because I prefer measuring the seam length while wearing the dress.
In the spring time, I will wear a little black cardigan with the dress and some pumps or loafers. In the summer I will wear it with sandals. This dress looks best with a waistline belt, like the one in the picture. It looks like the dress is gathered together by the belt, but it is the elastic waistband on the inside of the dress indeed. This makes the belt always stay in the right position. Thinking about that, I will possibly add some invisible belt loops on the side hems, to prevent the belt from slipping up or down while moving.
Oh Baby! Cute little Babydress and headband out of the leftovers
When I finished the dress, there wasn’t much fabric leftovers. It was barely enough for this little dress and a bow for the matching headband. The pattern for the dress is the „Peasant dress“ from Sew much Ado, it’s a free pattern. There wasn’t enough fabric to make the bodice of the dress in one piece, so I seperated it in two and added some ruffles at the seamline. When I was finished I decided to use the very last piece of fabric for an accessoire and made a little headband with a bow. For sewing that bow I looked at this great tutorial for fabric bows on Youtube, it is really very easy.
I’m so excited on how this will look on my baby girl and I hope it will fit soon.
Do you have any questions about this dress? Or did you already make a similar vintage dress? Feel free to write a comment or visit me on facebook or instagram.
In the summer 2015 I got inspired by the color turquoise. Though that color was not in vogue at that time, I just fell in love with it somehow. So when I was planning a dress for my best friend’s wedding, I chose that color for a decent party dress. (mehr …)
This is one of my favourite dresses this winter. I made it in november and sewed away the blackness and the cold of these dark days. It is my first dress from a fashion style pattern, you can find a little review to the pattern and introduction below.
This dress was very easy to sew. The pattern is not complicated and fitted exactly my size (38). I only had to adjust the waist line of the dress to my body shape about 3-4 cm. The fabric was not sloppy and easy to iron and sew. Sewing the neckline and seams with the twin needle was a little bit tricky, because it was the first time that I used that needle on my new sewing machine. I had to test it first on a rest piece of fabric until I found out the correct thread tension and stitch size. I wrote a seperate post about using and testing the twin needle (You will find a link here soon!)
I am very proud of the sleeves, because I think sleeves are always quite hard to fit correctly into the top of shirts and dresses. The sleeve lines on the top I strengthed with vlieseline, so they won’t wear out.
As you can see, the fitting of the dress is really nice. In the beginning I thought the seam on the back would be ugly, but now I find it to be very sexy. It adds an interesting detail to the back of the dress.
Fashion Style dress pattern – a short review
As I mentioned before this is my first pattern from the Fashion Style magazine. The pattern is availabe in six sizes, 36 to 46. The pattern itself is on transparent paper within the magazine, like you can also find it in Burda Style and other sewing magazines. Pattern and markers are easy to trace and to copy on the paper.
The introduction for sewing is written in big letters, so you can read it easily. Also it was very easy for me to understand.
I like the fit of the dress, only the sleeves are cut a little too low and the sleeve holes are too wide. I corrected that on the pattern. I really enjoyed sewing a pattern from the fashion style and I already used that pattern again to make beautiful shirt. I will write another post about that project later.
What I also like very much about this pattern is the fact that is is made for women with 1,72m height. For me with 1,73m this is perfect. The Burda Style use a standard height of 1,68. When I use them I need to make all the parts 2-4cm longer. For this pattern I didn’t need to do this, the legth was perfect.
How to style that dress
This dress is a real alrounder. You can wear it for work, a dinner party or even to the opera (Yes, I already wore that dress in all of the three locations). For a more fancy look combine it with nude tights, high heeled pumps and glittering jewellery. For a most casual look I wore boots and a leather jacket with the dress.
Thank you for reading this post! I’ll be back soon with another project! If you have a question or you want to give me some feedback, feel free to write a comment here or on my facebook page.